Master the Art of Setting Stones in Jewelry: Free Online Class

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Setting Stones with Pre-made Bezels
3. Setting a Square Stone
   • Tools Needed
   • Step 1: Ensuring the Table is Leveled
   • Step 2: Understanding the Girdle
   • Step 3: Folding Over the Silver
   • Step 4: Using a Bezel Rocker
   • Step 5: Cleaning and Polishing
4. Making a Tube Setting
   • Tools Needed
   • Step 1: Choosing the Right Size Tube
   • Step 2: Creating a Seat for the Stone
   • Step 3: Cutting and Shaping the Tube
   • Step 4: Adding the Setting Bur
   • Step 5: Soldering the Tube onto the Piece
   • Step 6: Cleaning and Polishing
5. Setting the Stone in the Tube
   • Step 1: Checking for Levelness
   • Step 2: Folding Over the Silver
   • Step 3: Finishing and Polishing

☑️ Article: Setting Stones in Jewelry

Welcome to the Estona Metalsmithing course! In this final lesson, we will be exploring the art of stone setting. Setting stones can add a touch of elegance and sparkle to your jewelry pieces. Whether you want to set a square stone using a pre-made bezel or create your own tube setting for round stones, we've got you covered. So grab your tools and let's dive in!

Setting a Square Stone

Tools Needed

Before we begin, let's gather the tools we'll need for this project:

• Pre-made square bezels
• Square stone that fits the bezel
• Tubing in various sizes
• Faceted gemstones
• Setting burrs in the correct size
• Saw blade and lubricant
• Soldering equipment
• Sanding sticks and sanding paper in different grits
• Polishing material
• Vernier calipers
• Scribe tool
• Bezel rocker and needle burnisher
• Setting punch and hammer (optional)
• Protoblast for holding the piece
• Magnifier (recommended)

Step 1: Ensuring the Table is Leveled

When setting a stone, it's crucial that the table (the flat part on top) is leveled and straight from all angles. This ensures a secure and aesthetically pleasing setting. The girdle, which is the widest part of the stone, should rest in a cup or bezel. Visualize folding the silver over the stone, with the extra silver extending down to the collet.

Step 2: Understanding the Girdle

The girdle of the stone plays a significant role in the setting process. For square stones, you want the silver to extend up to where the girdle starts to turn inward. This creates a thicker layer of material near the edges and a thinner layer in the middle. The edges of a square stone are more fragile, so it's important to handle them with care.

Step 3: Folding Over the Silver

Using a bezel rocker, apply pressure to fold the silver over the stone. Start with the corners, applying force in a diagonal direction. Be careful not to slip or damage the stone. Gradually move to the opposite corners. As you fold the silver, ensure the table remains level.

Step 4: Using a Bezel Rocker

To secure the stone, continue using the bezel rocker. Hold the tool at a 45-degree angle and apply pressure while rocking it back and forth. Maintain stability by resting your fingers on the tool. Be cautious not to touch the stone during this process.

Step 5: Cleaning and Polishing

Once the silver is folded and secured, clean the piece using a needle burnisher. Run it against the silver edges, avoiding contact with the stone. If any damage occurs to the stone, use 1200 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Finally, give the setting a final polish to achieve a beautiful, set square stone.

Making a Tube Setting

Tools Needed

Before we start making our tube setting, let's gather the necessary tools:

• Tubing in various sizes
• Gemstone for the setting
• Setting burr in the stone size (slightly smaller is also suitable)
• Saw blade and lubricant
• Soldering equipment
• Sanding sticks and sanding paper in different grits
• Polishing material
• Vernier calipers
• Scribe tool
• Square hook for checking right angles

Step 1: Choosing the Right Size Tube

Select a piece of tubing that allows the stone to fit snugly inside, with enough room around it for the silver to fold over. Measure the stone and consider its thickness when choosing the tubing size. Make sure the tube is perfectly right-angled before proceeding.

Step 2: Creating a Seat for the Stone

Using a setting burr, create a seat inside the tube for the stone. Lubricate the burr and carefully shape the inside of the tube. The seat should support the girdle of the stone and provide enough space for folding over the silver.

Step 3: Cutting and Shaping the Tube

Cut the tube to the desired length, taking into account the design of your jewelry piece. Remember to anneal the ring before cutting to prevent tension in the metal. Use a marker to mark the cutline and proceed with caution.

Step 4: Adding the Setting Bur

Pick a setting burr that matches the size of your stone or slightly smaller if necessary. Lubricate the burr and ensure it is leveled. Carefully lower the burr into the tube to create a seat for the stone. Check for levelness and stability.

Step 5: Soldering the Tube onto the Piece

Prepare your piece for soldering by applying flux or soldering paste. Heat the entire piece evenly, ensuring the solder flows properly. Be cautious when using tweezers, as they can act as heat sinks. Once the soldering is complete, clean the piece by pickling and polishing.

Setting the Stone in the Tube

Step 1: Checking for Levelness

Before setting the stone in the tube, ensure that the table of the stone is leveled from all angles. The girdle should rest on the edge created inside the tube. Verify that there is enough room for folding over the silver.

Step 2: Folding Over the Silver

Using a bezel rocker, fold over the silver to secure the stone. Apply pressure in a diagonal direction, starting from one corner to the opposite corner. Be mindful not to slip or damage the stone during this process.

Step 3: Finishing and Polishing

Once you have folded the silver around the stone, run the bezel rocker over the top for a secure setting. Use a needle burnisher to clean the inside edges while avoiding contact with the stone. Finish by polishing the piece for a final touch.

Setting stones in jewelry may seem daunting at first, but with the right tools and techniques, it becomes an accessible and rewarding process. Experiment with different settings and stone shapes to unleash your creativity. Remember to handle the stones and silver with care throughout the process, and don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. Happy stone setting!

Highlights

• Learn how to set square and round stones in jewelry
• Utilize pre-made bezels to simplify the setting process
• Create tube settings for a professional and secure stone setting
• Be mindful of the girdle and table when setting stones
• Use the right tools and techniques for a polished finish
• Experiment with different designs and settings to unleash your creativity

FAQ

Q: Can I use pre-made bezels for odd-shaped stones? A: Yes, pre-made bezels come in various shapes and sizes, including oval and round ones. They can save you time and effort in creating a custom bezel.

Q: How do I ensure the table of the stone is level? A: Leveling the table requires careful attention from all angles. Use a scribe tool and vernier calipers to ensure the table is straight before setting the stone.

Q: Can I set a square stone using a tube setting? A: Although tube settings are commonly used for round stones, you can also use them for square stones. Just make sure to choose a tube that allows the stone to fit snugly and provides enough silver to fold over.

Q: What if I accidentally damage the stone during the setting process? A: If you accidentally damage the stone, use sandpaper or a needle burnisher to smoothen out any scratches or imperfections. It's important to work slowly and carefully to minimize the risk of damaging the stone.

Q: How do I create a secure soldering joint for the tube setting? A: Apply soldering paste or flux to the joint before heating. Ensure that the entire piece is evenly heated to create a strong soldering joint.

Resources

• How to Make a Needle Burnisher
• Estona Metalsmithing Course