Elevate Your Bag Design with a Recessed Zipper - Step-by-Step Tutorial

Elevate Your Bag Design with a Recessed Zipper - Step-by-Step Tutorial

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Anatomy of a Recessed Zipper
   1. Back and Recessed Zipper
   2. External and Lining Pieces
   3. Measurements for the Recessed Zipper
3. Drafting the Recessed Zipper Pattern
   1. Determining the Width
   2. Determining the Length
   3. Creating the Pattern Piece
4. Adding a Recessed Zipper to a Bag with Facing
   1. Tracing the Original Pattern Pieces
   2. Amending the Lining Pieces
   3. Cutting and Labeling the Pieces
5. Customizing the Recessed Zipper for Bag without Facing
   1. Tracing the Side Panel
   2. Tracing the Side Facing
   3. Cutting and Labeling the Pieces
6. Adding a Recessed Zipper to a Bag with Box Corners
   1. Measuring the Box Corners
   2. Drafting the Facing and Lining Separately
   3. Customizing the Recessed Zipper Size
7. Conclusion

🧵 Adding a Recessed Zipper to Your Bag

In this tutorial, we will explore how to add a recessed zipper to a bag pattern that either opens or closes with a snap. If you've ever wondered how to achieve this stylish and functional detail, then you're in the right place. Before we dive in, let's take a closer look at the anatomy of a recessed zipper. Understanding the key components will help you draft the pattern and execute the design flawlessly.

Anatomy of a Recessed Zipper

Back and Recessed Zipper

A recessed zipper sits slightly lower in the back of the bag, making it appear recessed or tucked inside. To achieve this effect, we need both external and lining pieces for our bag. The recessed zipper is stitched between the facing and the lining portion of the bag, creating a clean and professional finish. Recessed zippers are typically made out of rectangles, which we will delve into later.

External and Lining Pieces

The external pieces of the bag refer to the visible outer fabric used to construct the bag's body. The lining piece goes inside the bag and provides structural support. For a recessed zipper, we need to have a top portion of the lining made from the external fabric as well. This portion is called the facing and is where the recessed zipper will be inserted.

Measurements for the Recessed Zipper

To determine the width of the recessed zipper, you can measure the gusset of your bag. The gusset is the width or depth of the bag's sides. The width of the recessed zipper should match the gusset to ensure a squared appearance. Additionally, the length of the recessed zipper should not exceed the width of the bag's front panel. It's recommended to make the recessed zipper slightly shorter than the front panel to allow for easy closure.

Drafting the Recessed Zipper Pattern

Now that we understand the anatomy and measurements required, let's dive into the process of drafting the recessed zipper pattern. We'll start with determining the width and length of the zipper, followed by creating the pattern piece.

Determining the Width

To determine the width of the recessed zipper, measure the gusset of your bag. For example, if the gusset is 9 centimeters (3.5 inches) wide, the recessed zipper should match this measurement. However, it's advisable to make the zipper slightly narrower than the gusset width to allow for ease of closure.

Determining the Length

The length of the recessed zipper should not exceed the width of the bag's front panel. For square-shaped backs, the zipper should be around 9 centimeters (3.5 inches) wide and 18 centimeters (7 inches) long. However, you can adjust the length based on your desired appearance. Remember, if you want a more closed look, make the zipper shorter. If you want a more open look, make the zipper wider.

Creating the Pattern Piece

Once you have determined the width and length of the recessed zipper, it's time to create the pattern piece. Start by drawing a rectangle that matches the measurements. Divide the rectangle into two equal parts to represent the external and lining pieces. Add a seam allowance around the edges, and don't forget to mark the midpoints and grain line. Label the piece as "zipper casing" and make a note of how many pieces you need to cut.

Adding a Recessed Zipper to a Bag with Facing

If your pattern includes a facing and a separate lining piece, slight modifications are needed to add the recessed zipper. Follow these steps to ensure a seamless integration.

Tracing the Original Pattern Pieces

Before making any amendments, it's best to trace the original pattern pieces without the seam allowance. This allows for easier modifications and better fit.

Amending the Lining Pieces

In a bag without a facing, the first step is to decide how wide you want the facing to be. Measure the desired width of the facing and separate it from the rest of the lining piece. Draw lines to indicate the facing portion on both sides of the piece, ensuring you mark the midpoints.

Cutting and Labeling the Pieces

After tracing the amended pattern pieces, add a seam allowance, and cut them out. Make sure to label the pieces correctly, indicating the purpose and quantity. The lining pieces should be cut from the lining fabric, while the external pieces remain the same.

Customizing the Recessed Zipper for Bags without Facing

For bags without a facing and with angled side seams, slight adjustments are needed to achieve the desired recessed zipper look.

Tracing the Side Panel

Take the pattern piece for the side panel and determine how wide you want the recessed zipper to be. Adjust the pattern accordingly, keeping in mind that the top of the bag should be slightly wider than the zipper casing.

Tracing the Side Facing

To create the facing for the side panel, measure the width you want for the facing and draw lines parallel to the panel's top edge. This portion will be cut separately from the lining fabric.

Cutting and Labeling the Pieces

Add a seam allowance to the modified pattern pieces, and cut them out. Be sure to label them accurately, indicating their purpose and quantity.

Adding a Recessed Zipper to a Bag with Box Corners

For bags with box corners and no side gussets, a similar process can be followed to achieve a recessed zipper.

Measuring the Box Corners

Measure the size of your box corner and the desired opening on the finished bag. Determine how wide and long you want the recessed zipper to be, keeping in mind the shape and style you want to achieve.

Drafting the Facing and Lining Separately

Using the measurements from the box corners, draft the facing and lining pieces separately. Pay attention to the width and length of the recessed zipper to align with the desired opening on the bag.

Customizing the Recessed Zipper Size

Based on the desired look for your bag, adjust the width and length of the recessed zipper. Remember to consider the angle of the side panels and how they will interact with the zipper casing.

Conclusion

Adding a recessed zipper to your bag pattern is a practical and stylish way to elevate your sewing projects. By understanding the anatomy of a recessed zipper and following the steps outlined in this tutorial, you'll be able to customize and execute the design flawlessly. Whether your bag has a facing, box corners, or angled side seams, you now have the knowledge to create professional-looking recessed zippers. So grab your pattern, fabric, and zipper, and let your creativity shine through!

Note: For a step-by-step visual tutorial on sewing the recessed zipper using the amended pattern, please refer to our next video. Stay crafty, friends!

Highlights

• Learn how to add a recessed zipper to your bag pattern
• Understand the anatomy of a recessed zipper
• Determine the measurements for your recessed zipper
• Draft the recessed zipper pattern
• Add a recessed zipper to a bag with facing
• Customize the recessed zipper for bags without facing
• Add a recessed zipper to a bag with box corners
• Elevate your sewing projects with stylish recessed zippers
• Get creative and experiment with different designs
• Stay tuned for a step-by-step video tutorial on sewing the recessed zipper