Master the Art of Bezel Setting Faceted Stones for Stunning Jewelry

Master the Art of Bezel Setting Faceted Stones for Stunning Jewelry

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. Finding the Right Tube Setting
   1. Outer and Inner Diameter Considerations
   2. Thickness of the Tubing Walls
   3. Examples of Suitable and Unsuitable Tubes
3. Finding and Choosing Tubing
   1. Buying Tubing in Packs or Single Lengths
   2. Different Sizes and Shapes of Tubing
   3. Making Individual Settings
4. Testing the Stone on the Tubing
   1. Ensuring a Small Rim of Metal Around the Stone
   2. Measuring the Height of the Stone
   3. Cutting the Tubing to the Appropriate Length
5. Setting the Stone in the Tubing
   1. Using a Setting Burr for Straight Walls
   2. Proper Technique for Cutting the Seat
   3. Getting the Stone Deep Enough in the Tubing
6. Securing the Stone in the Tubing
   1. Using a Bezel Rocker or Bezel Punch
   2. The Risk of Using a Bezel Punch
   3. Alternative Method: Using a Bezel Rocker and Burnisher
7. Conclusion

💎 Finding the Right Tubes and Tube Settings for Your Stones

When it comes to setting stones in jewelry, finding the right tube setting is essential. In this article, we will discuss how to choose the right tubing for your stones, whether you're a jewelry maker or a hobbyist. We'll cover important factors such as the outer and inner diameters, the thickness of tubing walls, and provide examples of suitable and unsuitable tubes. Additionally, we'll guide you through the process of finding and choosing the right tubing, testing the stone on the tubing, cutting the tubing to the correct length, and finally, setting the stone securely. Let's dive in!

📏 Finding the Right Tube Setting

Outer and Inner Diameter Considerations

When selecting a tube setting, one of the crucial factors to consider is the outer and inner diameter of the tubing. For example, if you have a 6.12-millimeter stone, you will need a tube with an outer diameter slightly larger than 6.12 millimeters. It's advisable to aim for a tube with an inner diameter about a millimeter smaller than the stone size. This ensures that there is enough metal to set the stone and create a secure hold.

Thickness of the Tubing Walls

Equally important is the thickness of the tubing walls. Thin-walled tubing is not suitable for tube settings, as it lacks the necessary metal needed to hold the stone securely. Look for tubing with thick walls that provide sufficient material to create a proper setting. Avoid tubes with walls that are too thin or that may vanish when burring into them.

Examples of Suitable and Unsuitable Tubes

To better understand what to look for, let's consider examples of suitable and unsuitable tubes. A tube with a thick wall and an outer diameter larger than the stone is ideal. This ensures there is enough metal to rub over the top of the setting or girdle of the stone, creating a secure hold. On the other hand, avoid tubes with very thin walls, as they may not provide enough material for a proper setting. It's crucial to strike a balance between the outer diameter, inner diameter, and wall thickness to achieve a successful tube setting.

📦 Finding and Choosing Tubing

Buying Tubing in Packs or Single Lengths

Tubing can be conveniently purchased in larger packs or as single lengths, depending on your needs. Suppliers like Rio Grande offer a wide selection of seamless tubes suitable for various projects. When buying tubing, consider the length, diameter, and quantity you require for your jewelry-making venture.

Different Sizes and Shapes of Tubing

Tubing comes in various sizes and shapes to accommodate different stone sizes and design preferences. You can find tubing with different outer and inner diameters to suit your particular stone size. Some tubes even come in unique shapes, allowing you to create custom settings. However, if you're new to jewelry making or working with smaller stones (less than six millimeters), it's recommended to use pre-made tubing rather than attempting to create your own setting.

Making Individual Settings

For those who enjoy the artistry and challenge of creating individual settings, making your own tubing setting can be a rewarding endeavor. However, keep in mind that this requires advanced skills and precision, particularly when it comes to fitting the stone and ensuring a secure hold. If you're working with stones smaller than six millimeters in size, it's best to stick with pre-made tubing for reliable results.

🔍 Testing the Stone on the Tubing

Before proceeding with the actual setting, it's crucial to test the stone on the tube to ensure the sizes align and there is enough metal to create a secure hold. Place the stone on top of the tube and check for a small rim of metal around the girdle of the stone. This indicates that the tube is larger than the stone. By visually confirming this, you can proceed with confidence to the next steps in the setting process.

Measuring the Height of the Stone is equally important. Use calipers to measure the stone's height, allowing you to determine the proper length for the tubing. It's essential to cut the tubing long enough to ensure the stone does not protrude from the back of the piece, especially if you are making a ring or other jewelry that comes into direct contact with the skin.

✂️ Setting the Stone in the Tubing

Using a Setting Burr for Straight Walls

To create straight walls within the tubing for the stone to rest against, utilize a setting burr. This differs from using a heartburn for flush settings. A setting burr allows you to maintain straight walls, providing more metal to press over the girdle of the stone. Use the setting burr with care, ensuring it has the same diameter as the stone or slightly smaller. By using a burr that fits the stone appropriately, you can avoid removing excess material too quickly.

Proper Technique for Cutting the Seat

Once you have the right tools, it's time to cut the seat for the stone. Use a setting burr mounted in a flex shaft and apply a small amount of burr lube for smoother cutting. Make sure you cut the seat straight, without chewing away too much metal on the outer edges. Take your time and go slowly, as this process will help ensure a snug and secure fit for your stone.

Getting the Stone Deep Enough in the Tubing

It's important to cut the seat deep enough to accommodate the girdle of the stone. Gradually work the setting burr into the tubing until the stone fits securely with a slight click. Be mindful that the metal will get hot during this process, so take precautions to protect your fingers. With patience and steady progress, you'll achieve the desired seat depth.

🧲 Securing the Stone in the Tubing

Using a Bezel Rocker or Bezel Punch

To secure the stone in the tube, you can choose between using a bezel rocker or a bezel punch. A bezel rocker allows you to press the sides of the metal over the girdle of the stone gently. This method requires precision and control but can provide excellent results. On the other hand, a bezel punch, when used correctly, can also achieve a secure hold. However, take caution as a bezel punch has a higher risk of scratching or damaging the stone due to the rotating motion.

The Risk of Using a Bezel Punch

Using a bezel punch carries a risk of damaging the stone or scratching the table. The inner depth of a bezel punch is critical, as it must be deep enough to avoid contact with the stone's table. It's important to find a bezel punch that is slightly larger than the tubing's diameter, ensuring a good press without causing harm. However, if you're uncomfortable with this method, there's an alternative approach that we will explore next.

Alternative Method: Using a Bezel Rocker and Burnisher

For those who prefer a safer option, using a bezel rocker and a burnisher is an effective and secure technique. Bezel rockers are commonly used for regular cabochon settings and work beautifully for tube settings as well. By gently pressing the sides of the metal over the girdle of the stone using a bezel rocker, you can achieve a secure hold. Finally, use a burnisher to carefully polish the setting for a professional finish.

🔚 Conclusion

Setting stones in tubing requires attention to detail, precision, and patience. By considering important factors such as outer and inner diameters, thickness of tubing walls, and using the appropriate tools and techniques, you can achieve stunning tube settings for your jewelry creations. Remember to test the stone on the tubing, measure the height, cut the seat carefully, and secure the stone using a bezel rocker or punch, or a combination of a bezel rocker and burnisher. With practice and skill, you'll create beautiful jewelry pieces that highlight the natural beauty of your stones.

Highlights

• Understanding the importance of finding the right tube setting for stones
• Considerations for outer and inner diameter of tubing
• Importance of tubing wall thickness for secure settings
• Examples of suitable and unsuitable tubes
• Purchasing tubing in packs or single lengths
• Exploring different sizes, shapes, and materials of tubing
• Making individual tubular settings for unique designs
• Testing the stone on the tubing to ensure a proper fit
• Measuring the stone's height and cutting the tubing to size
• Using a setting burr for straight walls and proper seat depth
• Securing the stone using a bezel rocker or punch
• The risk of using a bezel punch and alternative methods
• Achieving professional finishes with a burnisher
• Conclusion and tips for successful tube settings

【Resources】

1. Rio Grande - Supplier of various jewelry-making materials, including tubing
2. Bezel Rocker - Article on using a bezel rocker for different jewelry settings