Comment des millions de jeans sont recyclés en nouvelles paires

Comment des millions de jeans sont recyclés en nouvelles paires

Table of Contents

1. Introduction
2. The Challenge of Recycling Cotton
3. AFM: Repurposing Old Cotton into New Denim
4. The Process of Recycling Jeans
5. Sorting and Grading Used Clothes
6. Shredding and Recycling Low-grade Garments
7. AFM's Approach to Recycling Jeans
8. The Transformation from Jeans to Recycled Pants
9. Incorporating Virgin Cotton into the Blend
10. Spinning and Creating Yarn
11. Dyeing the Fabric with Recycled Indigo
12. Skying and Drying the Threads
13. Water Treatment and Conservation
14. Weaving, Cutting, and Finishing the Fabric
15. Sustainable Practices in Denim Manufacturing
16. AFM's Journey: From a Small Business to Sustainability
17. The Rise of Cotton Recycling in Pakistan
18. The Global Efforts to Recycle Textiles
19. The Challenges and Future of Recycled Jeans
20. Conclusion

🌱 The Challenge of Recycling Cotton

Recycling cotton has long been a challenge in the fashion industry. Cotton is notoriously hard to recycle due to its lengthy and expensive process. As a result, billions of jeans end up in landfills every year. However, in a world that increasingly values sustainability, some companies are striving to create a greener pair of blue jeans. One such pioneer is Artistic Fabric Mills (AFM) in Pakistan, a country that imports more used clothes than anywhere else in the world. AFM aims to repurpose old cotton into new denim, offering a sustainable solution to the textile waste problem.

♻️ AFM: Repurposing Old Cotton into New Denim

AFM plays a crucial role in the recycling process of jeans. The company operates massive facilities in Karachi, where workers sort through thousands of metric tons of used clothes every day. These clothes, donated to charities like the Salvation Army, make their way to grading centers in Pakistan. Here, items are separated into hundreds of categories and bundled based on quality and type. AFM purchases used jeans from local grading companies, cutting down the garments and processing them into recycled pants.

🔍 The Process of Recycling Jeans

To create recycled jeans, AFM follows a meticulous process that transforms used denim into new fabric. First, the garments must meet certain criteria; AFM only accepts denim that is at least 98% cotton and free from polyester or nylon blends. The jeans go through a conveyor belt, where they are cut into small pieces. Each step aims to grind the pants back into cotton, which is then pressed into large bales.

👖 The Transformation from Jeans to Recycled Pants

While the recycled fibers are too short to be spun into yarn on their own, AFM incorporates them with virgin cotton. The company continually invests in improving its cotton recycling plant, allowing for a higher percentage of recycled material in the final blend. A machine called a Blendomat skims off the top layer of fiber from multiple bales for consistency. The resulting blend, consisting of both recycled and virgin cotton, is then processed further.

🧶 Spinning and Creating Yarn

The blended cotton undergoes the spinning process, where ropes of fabric, known as slivers, are stretched and twisted into yarn. This process, though largely automated, is based on ancient yarn-spinning techniques. The yarn is tightly twisted and wrapped around a spool, known as a bobbin. The bobbins are placed on a metal rack called a creel before the threads are wound around a beam. This step ensures the production of high-quality yarn.

🎨 Dyeing the Fabric with Recycled Indigo

Traditionally, indigo dyeing in the textile industry is associated with massive water consumption and pollution. However, AFM has revolutionized this step in the process. The company extracts indigo dye from its own textile waste, recycling it to dye new fabric. Initially, the fabric strips appear green since indigo dye is not water-soluble. Only when exposed to oxygen do the threads turn blue. Through a process called skying, the ropes are hoisted into the air, allowing the dye to oxidize. Excess water is pressed out using rollers, and the ropes are then placed in individual buckets.

💧 Water Treatment and Conservation

Water treatment and conservation are critical aspects of AFM's sustainable denim manufacturing. In Pakistan, where water scarcity is an issue, AFM takes responsibility for purifying vast quantities of wastewater in its treatment plant. Up to 70% of this treated water is reused in the company's recycling process. By employing eco-friendly practices, AFM minimizes its water consumption and reduces its impact on the environment.

🧵 Weaving, Cutting, and Finishing the Fabric

After the dyeing process, the fabric is sent for weaving. An automated loom mixes dyed thread with white thread to create the signature twill pattern of denim. The fabric is then layered into sheets and cut into various sizes and styles. Innovative technology, such as lasers, is used to etch patterns into the jeans, eliminating the need for toxic chemicals and reducing water usage in the finishing process. Finally, the jeans are dried, given finishing touches, and prepared for distribution to stores worldwide.

🌍 Sustainable Practices in Denim Manufacturing

AFM sets an example for sustainable denim manufacturing by incorporating eco-friendly practices throughout its production process. From recycling cotton and reducing water consumption to eliminating toxic chemicals and promoting longevity, AFM showcases the potential for the fashion industry to adopt more sustainable methods. By prioritizing quality over quantity and encouraging consumers to buy better, AFM aims to contribute to a more sustainable future.

💡 Highlights

• AFM in Pakistan repurposes old cotton to create new denim, a sustainable solution to textile waste.
• The company processes thousands of metric tons of used clothes daily to extract jeans for recycling.
• AFM's meticulous process involves cutting down and grinding jeans into cotton, combining it with virgin cotton.
• The recycled cotton is spun into yarn and dyed using recycled indigo dye, with water conservation measures in place.
• By embracing sustainable practices, AFM produces high-quality denim while minimizing its environmental impact.

📚 Resources

• Artistic Fabric Mills (AFM)

FAQs

Q: How much recycled material is used in AFM's blend?\ A: AFM has the capacity to incorporate up to 30% used cotton into its blend, significantly reducing the need for virgin cotton.

Q: What are the challenges in scaling up recycled production?\ A: Scaling up recycled production requires significant investment and the involvement of more companies. Currently, less than 1% of all clothes are turned into recycled garments.

Q: Why is water conservation important in denim manufacturing?\ A: Denim manufacturing traditionally consumes large amounts of water. By implementing water conservation measures, like AFM's dyeing process and efficient washing techniques, the industry can mitigate its environmental impact.

Q: How does AFM promote sustainability beyond recycling cotton?\ A: AFM incorporates various sustainable practices, such as eliminating toxic chemicals from the finishing process and investing in innovative technologies like laser etching. The company also emphasizes the importance of consuming less but of better quality.